So I haven't written in a pretty long time, and I have had one request to keep writing! (Hi Surfing Grandma!). The last real surf session I had was I think the San Diego trip to the Wave House. Geez that was a long time ago. Actually, I did go the weekend afterwards to 26th and remember it not being too memorable, a small and frustrating day probably. The weather was beautiful though and I got to catch up with Christina that day. That was maybe 3 weeks ago. Since then I've been either busy with family stuff or catching up with old friends, plus there has been a very meager swell recently!
San Diego on a whole was great fun. I love my surf crew and any time spent with them will always be enjoyable. The Wave House on the other hand was an hour of being beat up and spit out by a man made barrel of death. Okay, I'm being a little dramatic, but I really had maybe a max of 2 secs on the body board and then in I went into the washing machine. Poor Khang was seriously injured by the thing. He landed feet first after going over the top of the wave, causing his knees to buckle inwards. He reported hearing 2 pops and intense pain in his knee. No Bueno. His knee swelled up immediately, another no bueno sign. He couldn't put any weight on it so the rest of the weekend he was helped by the rest of us to get around. My PT diagnosis is a triple triad: Torn ACL, MCL and meniscus. I await to hear back from him on the MRI results.
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| Not an accurate representation of us. This was a guy that went after us. |
That night we had dinner in Encinatas, and celebrated Francis's birthday. fun fun.
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| I decided to braid Dias's hair with help from Nicole |
The next day we all felt the effects of our beat up session. With any movement such as turning in bed, picking up my covers, and sitting down, I felt my abs, biceps, triceps, back and neck scream in soreness. Oh it was bad, the worst soreness I've ever felt. The rest of the guys tried the stand up "surfing" portion of the wave house, and they all had whiplash type symptoms after countless of falls going backwards, with their head bouncing off the ground. Good call I stayed with the body board. We surfed at D Street in Encinitas. What a gorgeous and sweet area. We parked in the neighborhood and oh how I would love to live here, or at least have a summer home. The waves looked fun, not too big and scary and lots of surfers were out right in front of the stairs. I had my long board, as usual these days, and paddled out with difficulty. With every stroke I felt the burn in my arms. I knew I wouldn't last too long this morning. My one and only wave turned out to be pretty fun. It seemed pretty big, the drop was smooth and there was no one in my way. I was right at the peak and was able to bottom turn my board back to the top, which is usually an accident if it ever happens. I knew this would be one of my few waves so i made the most of it and rode it to shore. Big mistake because it was a pain in the butt paddling back to the line up. I was tired, and it took forever! I didn't last much longer and paddled back in when I had enough. I hung out with Nicole who was huddled on the beach taking pictures of us.
We ate at the famous Swami's Cafe afterwards. It was a zoo, and pretty confusing being a first timer. You order first and then stalk a table that looks almost finished to sit at. The waiters then have to search for you, wandering around frantically calling your name. Doesn't seem too efficient to me. We didn't want to have to deal with that since we had such a giant group so instead, we ate, or more like scarfed, our food in the parking lot, after a long wait and a morning of surf. Great food though, I wish I had gotten the Acai bowl, but at least I got a taste.
Expect future posts from San O and Hawaii! Can't wait!!!!
