surf sesh 10/8 and 10/9

FINALLY. A great surf session yesterday, it's been so long! Yesterday proved that long boarding is for me.

"Pinky," my mini fish board, resurfaced Saturday. It was such a huge jump from my 8'6" that I wasn't able to catch any waves. Super frustrating, but I also got there late and the waves seemed to turn off right after I got there. I was paddling super hard but it felt like I was going nowhere.

So after a disappointing Saturday things definitely turned around the next day. I got to bed early Sat night so I could catch the dawn patrol line up. I woke up with relative ease, and made it in the water by 8. I took out the trusty old long board again and there were beautiful peaks breaking everywhere. I spotted Christina first and paddled toward her. Her friend Apola, from yoga, was out this time, and I got to finally meet her. Yay for more surf chicas! Hopefully surfing is her thing and she'll be another member of the DRC.  I later found Klaude with Roy and Bruce, the old regulars at 26th. While with them, I caught some of the nicest and longest rights and lefts. They helped call me on to waves and man, I had such a great time. I am getting the hang of controlling the board while on the wave, slowing down, speeding up, staying on the face. What an awesome feeling. Roy called out this big wave for me to start paddling for so I said, F it, I'll go for it. Well, who do I see, but Klaude also going for it, right beside me. I tried to avoid him by paddling more straight but this messed everything up. I nose dived, and I was flung forward over my board. Klaude also ate it, and we were in a white wash tumble. Everything was fine, just that initial shock of going through a bad wipeout. That's what's great about surfing with friends, when one snakes another, you just snake them right back. You both brush it off in the end and it all works out. :)  So what a BIG difference from Saturday to Sunday, I'm so glad I made it out again. What a beautiful weekend.