I'm finally back to surfing after about a month break. I took it easy today, only staying in for a little over an hour, even though the conditions were still pretty good when I left. I got to 26th st at around 8:30. As I was looking for free parking I spotted Dais and Khang parked on 27th and Christina up on Highlands. I finally snagged a spot on Highland's and 30th, and made my way down to the beach with booties AND gloves. Yes its been a month since I've been in the water so I was expecting it to be COLD. But in actuality, possibly from this heat wave, it wasn't that bad.
The waves today were 2-3 ft and variable. There were definitely some good shoulders to work with but also some pretty gnarly close outs that would come in occasionally. Klaude was here too! But he was behind the camera this morning, due to a recent cold he caught over the weekend. Everyone seems to be getting sick this winter.
I paddled out with relative ease, it was super low tide and I pretty much walked out to the line up. My shoulder's been pretty pain free for the last few weeks and I've been doing light exercises, however I was nervous to see how it would hold up to paddling for an hour. Fortunately it held up pretty well. I didn't feel much of anything, maybe a couple twinges toward the end. The waves seemed to be jacking up quickly and breaking fast, making it tough to paddle into. I got a hang of it after awhile and was able to position myself a couple of times and barely have to paddle to catch a wave. It was pretty cool, this was the first time I could just pop up and ride the wave like that.
Christina has been borrowing a Zippi 6' fish and had it out today. It was a pretty bright yellow with orange trim. She said she's been having some trouble getting on it, but mostly because of the conditions lately. Today was a good day to practice on it, and she got one good ride that I saw. Rick was out today too, being as cheery as usual and expressing his love of fish boards to Christina. Khang caught some giant close-outs, getting the drop and then getting swallowed in the white water, it was pretty impressive.
To complete another successful surf sesh, the dolphins were out, and jumping! Well, I only saw one jump, but that's always a treat. The whole sesh was sunny and clear, but for some reason when I paddled in at around 10:50, the fog just started rolling in. The fog horns were blaring and I couldn't even see the ocean from the sand. So weird! This weather I tell you. It's warm and sunny back at home, but alas I have to hunker down and study for my upcoming board exam. Wish the library was open, there are too many distractions at home.
The waves today were 2-3 ft and variable. There were definitely some good shoulders to work with but also some pretty gnarly close outs that would come in occasionally. Klaude was here too! But he was behind the camera this morning, due to a recent cold he caught over the weekend. Everyone seems to be getting sick this winter.
I paddled out with relative ease, it was super low tide and I pretty much walked out to the line up. My shoulder's been pretty pain free for the last few weeks and I've been doing light exercises, however I was nervous to see how it would hold up to paddling for an hour. Fortunately it held up pretty well. I didn't feel much of anything, maybe a couple twinges toward the end. The waves seemed to be jacking up quickly and breaking fast, making it tough to paddle into. I got a hang of it after awhile and was able to position myself a couple of times and barely have to paddle to catch a wave. It was pretty cool, this was the first time I could just pop up and ride the wave like that.
Christina has been borrowing a Zippi 6' fish and had it out today. It was a pretty bright yellow with orange trim. She said she's been having some trouble getting on it, but mostly because of the conditions lately. Today was a good day to practice on it, and she got one good ride that I saw. Rick was out today too, being as cheery as usual and expressing his love of fish boards to Christina. Khang caught some giant close-outs, getting the drop and then getting swallowed in the white water, it was pretty impressive.
To complete another successful surf sesh, the dolphins were out, and jumping! Well, I only saw one jump, but that's always a treat. The whole sesh was sunny and clear, but for some reason when I paddled in at around 10:50, the fog just started rolling in. The fog horns were blaring and I couldn't even see the ocean from the sand. So weird! This weather I tell you. It's warm and sunny back at home, but alas I have to hunker down and study for my upcoming board exam. Wish the library was open, there are too many distractions at home.
welcome back cherylita!! i'm glad you had a nice day in small surf... in my opinion, it was probably perfect for a "welcome back home" surf session. don't want you to paddle out at 7 foot rogue waves exploding in front of you!
ReplyDeletewhich, by the way, is happening tomorrow, and the whole weekend.... hahaha
haha, ohhh what good timing I have. Looks like another small break for me!
ReplyDeleteGlad to have you back in the water! I missed this surf session. I think I was up too late playing MW3 on PS3, so addicting. There goes my early mornings. This sounded like a very happy sessions. Good write-up, and yeah . . . it looks pretty big this weekend. I'd be surprised if there's any shape at all locally. Good time for a break. Good luck on your exam!
ReplyDelete