5-18-12 and 5-19-12, Fri and Sat
Last week was rough. I had just quit my sham of a job the Friday before. Long story short, they were breaking the law by over utilizing the PT Aides. I told them to change, they denied knowing they were breaking the law but agreed to change and I because I didn't want to be in the middle of all that, I left. I am the PT Super Hero, swooping in to get the bad guys, and then getting the heck out of there.
I didn't know what my next move was, but I knew it meant starting my job search over again. Did I want to go back to my old part-time jobs? Should I use this as an opportunity to look into a whole different setting? I've been scarred by the small ortho clinic, and I'm not too keen on going back, unless they are really good.
So in addition to job applications, that whole week I spent each morning going on surfline and reloading the surf cam's every 30 secs. I was willing the waves to get better after each click, to see if it was worth it to drive my butt out there to surf, and each day I weaseled out of going surfing. It also made me seriously consider buying a surfline premium membership.
So FINALLY at the end of the week the waves looked rideable, there were people out at Porto and I was more motivated to go. Well, the waves were deceiving. I got in around 9ish. I jumped in and the waves were a lot bigger than they looked from shore. I was on my long board, and boy was it hard to get over those waves. It was so consistent because of the wind swell that there wasn't any let up. I made it out with not too much trouble, and got a wave almost immediately. I was stoked, this wasn't going to be that bad after all! However, I took the wave almost to shore, and for some reason, I just couldn't make it back out to the line up. The waves were just too powerful and I wasn't able to hold onto my board when turtle rolling. This was one of those days where a nice potato chip board would be perfect. So I decided to get out to rest and time going out this time. Of course, right when I got back in, the waves starting going again, and I was stuck for a good 15 mins of struggle. I got out, chilled a lil bit and tried for the third time...and well it ended the same way. So that was the that, a good sign to just call it quits. I sat on the beach a little longer, watching the good surfers, and longing to be like them. Ah well, at least I tried.
I ended up changing and since there was still 1 hr left on my meter, I jogged down to 26th from Porto to see how it was down there. I ended up chatting to Glen who got swept south by the current all the way to the 2nd lifeguard tower from 26th. He was walking more north so when he got carried back to 26th, that would be the sign to get out.
Saturday: I went with my friend Olivia who's a beginner. She learned on a foamie at UCSD and this was her first time on a real board. She was borrowing my dad's 9'2". We went to 26th this time, because the crowd would be thinner and the waves smaller than Porto. The conditions were nice and glassy, but the waves were all crashing on the inside. We gave it a benefit of the doubt and jumped in. This time there were nice lulls, so getting out was easy peasy. The only problem was the waves just weren't breaking, so there was a lot of fruitless paddling. Olivia caught one white water wave, and was stoked! I'm glad she at least stood up today, with these conditions. I saw Roy and Don and they were catching the inside waves, that were fast and breaking right on the sand. They were ripping as usual and somehow made it unscathed.
I got one good wave and tried to bail before the sand, but got caught in the sand storm anyways. There was sand all up in my hair and even inside my wetsuit! Good times overall, glad Olivia made it out.
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