I've been on a roll lately. This is my second, 2 day in a row, weekend surf sesh, this month! Maybe it's my lack of weekend plans, or shear willpower from missing so many weekends previously, but I was pumped to surf this morning. Even despite the gloomy weather, the pending rain, and my warm cozy bed.
I was at 26th at around 8, and the water was much more calm than yesterday, and the waves a lot smaller. As I was getting ready, Francis walked by who had parked up the hill to score free parking. I knew Christina and Klaude were already out there, so I hurried up to get in the water so I could actually hang out with them this time. The water actually didn't feel much colder than yesterday, it was just the lack of sun and the freezing cold off-shore wind, that made it cold.
Today was definitely a long board day, the waves were slow rolling and there were a good amount of shoulders to get on to in between a lot of close outs. Christina was catching a bunch of waves, some early, some late, and always going to shore. Apolla was doing super well for starting so recently, she caught a few too on her 7'6" fun short board. I've gotta remember to ask if I can try riding it someday...I think I want to purchase a good in betweener board like that. Klaude and Francis were staying more in the inside catching short rides and competing with all the long boarders dominating the line up. I caught a nice bunch, a few standouts on the face of a few waves. Today's waves were nice and gentle, a nice transition from yesterday's washing machine. Christina and Apolla left at around 9, they had a yoga class to get to at 10:30. Props to them for cross-training, in the same day! I'm spent after surfing usually.
While sitting out in the ocean, all around us the clouds were dark and you could tell it was raining in the distance. About an hour in or so it started to sprinkle, and when I got out to my car another 45mins later, it started to rain harder, and harder, and harder. It was a trip trying to get out of my wetsuit, scramble to put my board on my car, and try to not get my stuff too wet in my trunk. I ended up changing in my car with the engine running and heat blasting. It's always a treat to end at around 10, and listen to cartalk on NPR on the ride home. All in all, a good mellow surf sesh, however cold, to end the weekend.
I was at 26th at around 8, and the water was much more calm than yesterday, and the waves a lot smaller. As I was getting ready, Francis walked by who had parked up the hill to score free parking. I knew Christina and Klaude were already out there, so I hurried up to get in the water so I could actually hang out with them this time. The water actually didn't feel much colder than yesterday, it was just the lack of sun and the freezing cold off-shore wind, that made it cold.
Today was definitely a long board day, the waves were slow rolling and there were a good amount of shoulders to get on to in between a lot of close outs. Christina was catching a bunch of waves, some early, some late, and always going to shore. Apolla was doing super well for starting so recently, she caught a few too on her 7'6" fun short board. I've gotta remember to ask if I can try riding it someday...I think I want to purchase a good in betweener board like that. Klaude and Francis were staying more in the inside catching short rides and competing with all the long boarders dominating the line up. I caught a nice bunch, a few standouts on the face of a few waves. Today's waves were nice and gentle, a nice transition from yesterday's washing machine. Christina and Apolla left at around 9, they had a yoga class to get to at 10:30. Props to them for cross-training, in the same day! I'm spent after surfing usually.
While sitting out in the ocean, all around us the clouds were dark and you could tell it was raining in the distance. About an hour in or so it started to sprinkle, and when I got out to my car another 45mins later, it started to rain harder, and harder, and harder. It was a trip trying to get out of my wetsuit, scramble to put my board on my car, and try to not get my stuff too wet in my trunk. I ended up changing in my car with the engine running and heat blasting. It's always a treat to end at around 10, and listen to cartalk on NPR on the ride home. All in all, a good mellow surf sesh, however cold, to end the weekend.
cold cold cold day. such small surf... i couldn't believe that the surf wouldn't pick up! thanks for capturing the day's surf in your words. another great way to end the weeekend!
ReplyDeleteand yes, you have been coming out more and more... we notice, trust me, and we love it