This morning began with a late start but well worth it because my mermer, Silverton, came along with me! It's a warm and sunny morning, no more grey clouds or rain! woo! As we walked to tower 26 we see Mr. Kimura out with his camera again. Silverton takes off on his jog, barefooted, down the beach while I hop into the water. It's super calm this morning, with beautiful consistent 3-4 footers coming in. I find the gang easily, seeing Christina with her Warrior I stance and KK riding the same wave. I say hi to them, Fransauce and later the regulars, Roy, Don, and Bruce. Everyone looks cheery from a morning full of fun waves. Dais and Khang come about 30 mins later, and it's the whole gang together again, minus Matt who's on a mini vacay to SF and his journey to see Cosmic John.
Overall we had a great time. I was catching some really nice rides, with a few big drops. Mr. Kimura got one of them on film, can't wait to see it! Christina started the seaweed war, and KK gave a fashion show with his seaweed hair extensions. However, it turned into a day of accidents, and not so great ones. Ever since riding my long board more regularly, I've had difficulty keeping the board with me when ducking under waves. It's gotten me into trouble in the past, with my board onetime hitting Khang in the back. Sorry Khang :( So today, as I was trying to turtle roll under a wave, I lost my grip and the board got caught in the wave. When I came up for air, I found my board was tangled in someone else's leash and this guy was in obvious pain. I'm like CRAP, this is not good. He said he hit is knee, and I looked at my board and one of the fins broke off into a sharp little point! Some how in the wave tumble, My board's fin and this guy's knee hit, and the fin broke clear off. Miraculously, the fin box was still in tack though. I apologized profusely and he said he was okay, but he was obviously hurt and he paddled away. Hopefully the wetsuit padded him enough so that he'll just have a big nasty bruise. Klaude happened to be right there and he said he had an extra fin I could replace it with. Unfortunately, we didn't manage to unstick the fin, probably due to how small it was, so I ended up surfing on the gimp fin for the next hour. It actually didn't feel much different while riding it.
The rest of the hour the waves kept on coming! The conditions stayed the same and I wish I could have stayed out forever. There were a few big sets that I got caught in though, and I was trying my best to keep my board with me, but a few times I just couldn't keep a hold of it. So the second of the accidents was less catastrophic. I was trying to get my last wave in, so I was going for anything. Bad idea. I took this wave, dropped in front of a guy I didn't see and heard the dreadful sound of board on board. We checked our boards, I didn't see any damage and I don't think the other guy had any too. WHEW. I was out of there after that, not wanting to spread any more bad luck. I guess it was just one of those days.
Silv and I were starving so we headed to Rutt's and shared a King sized Royale, an omelet scramble a top a bed of rice. Nomnomnomnom. Later on though, I started feeling this sharp pain in my left hip. My hip has been causing me some grief lately and I'm pretty sure it's due to the multiple pulls of my leash on my left ankle. So now it hurts when I put weight on my L leg, and now I'm limping around and using a crutch to not aggravate it some more. Sooo yet another reason I really need to start getting better with my turtle rolling. :-/ Or go back to my smaller board, hehe.
Overall we had a great time. I was catching some really nice rides, with a few big drops. Mr. Kimura got one of them on film, can't wait to see it! Christina started the seaweed war, and KK gave a fashion show with his seaweed hair extensions. However, it turned into a day of accidents, and not so great ones. Ever since riding my long board more regularly, I've had difficulty keeping the board with me when ducking under waves. It's gotten me into trouble in the past, with my board onetime hitting Khang in the back. Sorry Khang :( So today, as I was trying to turtle roll under a wave, I lost my grip and the board got caught in the wave. When I came up for air, I found my board was tangled in someone else's leash and this guy was in obvious pain. I'm like CRAP, this is not good. He said he hit is knee, and I looked at my board and one of the fins broke off into a sharp little point! Some how in the wave tumble, My board's fin and this guy's knee hit, and the fin broke clear off. Miraculously, the fin box was still in tack though. I apologized profusely and he said he was okay, but he was obviously hurt and he paddled away. Hopefully the wetsuit padded him enough so that he'll just have a big nasty bruise. Klaude happened to be right there and he said he had an extra fin I could replace it with. Unfortunately, we didn't manage to unstick the fin, probably due to how small it was, so I ended up surfing on the gimp fin for the next hour. It actually didn't feel much different while riding it.
The rest of the hour the waves kept on coming! The conditions stayed the same and I wish I could have stayed out forever. There were a few big sets that I got caught in though, and I was trying my best to keep my board with me, but a few times I just couldn't keep a hold of it. So the second of the accidents was less catastrophic. I was trying to get my last wave in, so I was going for anything. Bad idea. I took this wave, dropped in front of a guy I didn't see and heard the dreadful sound of board on board. We checked our boards, I didn't see any damage and I don't think the other guy had any too. WHEW. I was out of there after that, not wanting to spread any more bad luck. I guess it was just one of those days.
Silv and I were starving so we headed to Rutt's and shared a King sized Royale, an omelet scramble a top a bed of rice. Nomnomnomnom. Later on though, I started feeling this sharp pain in my left hip. My hip has been causing me some grief lately and I'm pretty sure it's due to the multiple pulls of my leash on my left ankle. So now it hurts when I put weight on my L leg, and now I'm limping around and using a crutch to not aggravate it some more. Sooo yet another reason I really need to start getting better with my turtle rolling. :-/ Or go back to my smaller board, hehe.
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